2022.03.10　｜　COMMENTARY

Original crew neck sweatshirt AN161, AN161-R SIDE RIB SWEAT - a highlight this season

From ANACHRONORM 2022 1st COLLECTION

・

This time, we featured crewneck sweatshirts that we created originally.

・・・FABRIC・・・

When creating this sweatshirt from scratch, the challenge was the feel of the fabric.

・

Sweatshirts from long-established American manufacturers are characterized by their very durable fabric and rough, dry feel.

To achieve this, we consulted with craftsmen,

and what we adopted this time was "special degreasing processing."

・

By applying this process to the originally smooth and soft fabric in its finished state, we succeeded in reproducing the feel and texture of vintage sweatshirts.

・・・DETAIL・・・

As for the overall details, the fabric is used horizontally to prevent vertical shrinkage, and ribs are placed on the sides to reduce horizontal shrinkage while ensuring ease of movement, making it a reverse weave specification.

・AN161 SIDE LIB SWEAT

・AN161-R REMAKED SIDE LIB SWEAT

The main difference between these two items is the damage applied throughout.

For AN161, we brought in sweatshirts that had been worn for many years and examined what kind of damage would occur in which areas during daily wear, applying a realistic damaged look.

The ribbed parts of the neck, sleeves, and hem, which are often exposed to daily interference, are reproduced with a frayed, damaged feel.

・

AN161-R features additional damage, a specialty of ANACHRONORM, and subtle remakes throughout.

Another subtle point is that upon closer inspection, dye has been added to create stain-like marks, similar to those seen on vintage sweatshirts, to enhance the realistic texture.

・

For AN161-R, instead of using an actual worn sample during the production phase, we imagined what kind of damage would occur with wear and applied the damage accordingly.

・

For this styling, an orange long-sleeved T-shirt is layered underneath, and the orange peeking through the damaged areas creates a striking contrast with the white.

This is recommended for those who are wondering what to wear underneath a damaged item.

・

・・・SILHOUETTE・・・

Looking at vintage sweatshirts from an era when a just-fit size was mainstream, many have distorted shapes due to washing and shrinkage (such as extremely shortened lengths or narrow armholes compared to the body width), which is something not found in vintage clothing. We focused on this aspect.

・

During the production process, we repeatedly tested, sometimes experiencing extreme shrinkage and other times not shrinking as expected,

After much trial and error, we arrived at a silhouette with a relaxed body width and a length that isn't too long.

Please see the silhouette in the wearing photos.

・AN161 SIDE LIB SWEAT